Mountain Biking-and Maybe Hiking at Fellows Lake

August 31, 2022 / howtodotheozarks / Leave a comment

**This connector trail led to the Little Bit trail.**

So I learned a valuable lesson today, maybe a few of them. I have been wanting to bike more and several weeks ago happened upon a bike rack on clearance that would fit the Kia and aide me in my goal. So today, I decided to try my hand, for the first time, mountain biking some of the trails at Fellows Lake which is only a short drive away from my home.

After the nail biting drive down Hwy 65, watching my bike on the rack more than I watched the road in front of me (luckily it was a low traffic period) I unloaded my Schwinn mountain bike from the rack, slung my string bag loaded with water and Clif Bars over my back and proceeded to bike my way down the Little Bit trail located just off N. FR 197, close to where the access for the handicap fishing dock is located.

Lesson One: I should probably buy a helmet. For some reason, I was not expecting the level of difficulty that came with this adventure or misadventure. I expected to ride over some hills, stay on a dirt track, and pedal through some water-maybe. It is next to a lake. What I discovered was the trails are very narrow, I don’t know my bike as well as I thought I did, and there were obstacles someone had placed in the way, like logs that were lined up, high banked curves and rocks placed over streams. I brake-checked myself numerous times and thanked god I had not invited anyone to ride with me and witness my ineptitude.

**One of the obstacles on the Little Bit Trail**

Lesson Two: Beginner trails are in the eye of the beginner. I had no business being on these “beginner” trails today. My awesome goal of biking casually through the woods of Fellows Lake quickly turned into a hike as I abandoned my 2 wheeled transport next to a tree near a particularly startling obstacle and had a good hike for about 20 minutes before turning around and heading back.

Pretty much chickened out of this biking adventure today.

Hiking felt pretty good until I ran into two full blown spider webs with my face. I quickly realized I was the first one through the trails this morning and no one else had cleared out the creepy crawlers before me. I grabbed a long stick, walked directly into another web, breaking said stick while thrashing about trying to get the sticky webbing off my face and shoulders. Grabbed a stouter stick and proceeded to sweep it ahead of me to remove any more dangerous spider predators before resuming my hike.

Fellows was quiet and beautiful, regardless of the spiders that tried to catch me for breakfast. The new Ozark Greenways Trail system meanders around the entire lake, giving miles of peaceful though sometimes challenging hiking and biking opportunities. I think I will check out some of the smaller bike routes for this fall when the changes will make for an excellent and somewhat cooler experience. You are allowed to bike and hike these trails, but be vigilant. It can be somewhat hard to see the trail ahead of you due to the foliage. Be ready to call out if you are mountain biking these trails so that hikers can move aside allowing you to pass.

The marina has maps of all the trails available around the lake, some as short as .14 miles and as long as 4.5 miles. Most of the trails are in and back as they are not looped so remember you must save enough energy to get your bike back to the car. I have been guilty of this before-having so much fun getting there that I forget I have to go back!

Lesson Three: Check your equipment before loading your bike back onto your vehicle, especially if you have a strap-on model bike rack. I got home and discovered the bottom strap was nowhere near my trunk where it should have been. Luckily enough, the other straps held the bike in place and it didn’t fly off and hit any other motorists while I was cruising down Hwy 65!

Lesson Four: Go have fun! This was a rather nerve racking thing for me to do alone. I know how to ride a bike, of course, but to do something like this took some courage even for someone who loves to do new things. I was so happy I did it and I got in a good workout. PS: I did tell my daughter where I was just in case I landed in a ditch somewhere ;-).

Check out the YouTube channel for a video of part of the trail and Instagram at htdto2020 for more pics.

Hiking Hemmed In Hollow Part II

May 22, 2022June 12, 2022 / howtodotheozarks / Leave a comment

Float traffic on the Upper Buffalo River on Mother’s Day weekend was high even with the river running fast. Cole and I were in agreement that the river was much too high to float at our current experience level. The hike was enough for this girl. Still there were plenty of people with children and dogs floating on Saturday and I wished them well. There is a point during the float where you are able to beach your craft and hike from the river to the falls. This video shows that access point and it is certainly less physically taxing and only 1.5 miles or so. Folks walking in from the river to the falls were wearing bathing suits, Chakos, and carrying their beer-hikers didn’t fall into that category for the most part. Personally, I was wishing I had brought some sturdy hiking boots with better ankle support and less slippery soles than my Brooks tennis shoes!

Traffic and water were high on the Upper Buffalo River Mother’s Day weekend

A few things about the ascent that saved our bacon. Liquid IV that Darby had the foresight to buy before joining us on Friday night and my Ascent trekking poles which were a Mother’s Day present. Liquid IV is a powder that you mix with water or Powerade/Gatorade to increase your electrolyte balance and give you a shot of energy. Look for it in the drink mix aisle at your local grocery store. We also brought plenty of snacks including crunchy peanut butter, pretzel sticks, trail mix, and Clif bars. Again, we still fell short on water/Powerade which was important for the ascent as we took more breaks and used more water. Cole did have his Sawyer Squeeze (https://www.sawyer.com/products/squeeze-water-filtration-system) available at Bass Pro and Academy, but it needed to be cleaned and output was torturously slow.

**Ascend trekking poles available at Bass Pro for approximately $50**

As we climbed up the equivalent of The Empire State Building that Saturday afternoon, I kept reminding myself that if the worst should happen and we needed to spend the night in the woods, we were prepared for it. We still had plenty of food to get through a single night, Cole had fire starting equipment, I had toilet paper and we knew there was a cabin down a different trail as well as how to build a squirrel’s nest for shelter if needed. Luckily, by placing one foot in front of the other and resting when needed, we did not have to rely on our backcountry skills to survive the night. Expect the best, prepare for the worst.

Over that Mother’s Day weekend, a hiker from Springfield fell to his death near the Indian Creek drainage area. Read the article here: https://www.ky3.com/2022/05/09/hike-springfield-mo-dies-after-fall-along-buffalo-national-river/. A lot of this area is backcountry, rated difficult on Alltrails, steep and was very slippery with all the rain that had fallen the previous week. No matter what your skill level, accidents can happen; hikers and floaters should take stock of their experience level and if necessary, hike and/or float with a licensed and insured guide that is familiar with the area in all conditions. If it had rained any more on Friday before leaving for Arkansas, I doubt I would have hiked this particular trail. Cole and I are well versed in first aide, CPR, and carry enough emergency supplies to get by in a pinch. Except, apparently, for water which we really need to get better at.

All in all, this was an excellent gift to myself. Time with the kids, out in nature, doing something challenging and a bit dangerous. I’d do it again in a heartbeat!

The end of a long haul!

Hiking Hemmed In Hollow, Arkansas

May 13, 2022June 12, 2022 / howtodotheozarks / Leave a comment

**The warning sign that we did not read before beginning our descent!**

This hiking trip took a year to accomplish due to my transportation issues last year with my Kia. I love planning Mother’s Day outings like https://howtodotheozarks.com/2020/05/14/roaring-river-state-park/ to celebrate with my kids, husband and my own mom when possible. I have been wanting to hike Hemmed In Hollow for years. It is a beautiful spot outside Compton Arkansas, but a tough hike for anyone who is not in fairly decent shape. I wanted to do this in the spring before it was too hot so Mother’s Day seemed like the perfect weekend. On Friday night, Cole, Darby and I headed down to Arkansas to celebrate Mother’s Day together.

On this trip, I reserved my very first Airbnb rental right outside Jasper, Arkansas, a 40-minute drive from Compton. The Buffalo River Bunkhouse was everything we were expecting and more, you can check it out here https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/26860505?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=28927e30-8942-44dc-8cbc-8bc6e23aedbf. Thelma, the owner, lives on site and has another Airbnb on the premises called The Bungalow which is perfect for 1-2 people. Thelma had stocked everything we could want including shampoo, soap, toothpaste and extra blankets. She even had little cans of Starbucks Breakfast Blend which we had for breakfast on our second morning. Of course, we brought our own food, but the grill, fridge, stove, and microwave all came in handy and what luxury over tent camping! The only thing that would have made this spot more perfect was a hot tub. The property is located on the Little Buffalo River and has access from the backyard. Cole and I paid for 3 day non resident Arkansas fishing permits ($16 at Walmart in Harrison) just in case we had a chance to get some fishing in.

**The Buffalo River Bunkhouse outside Jasper Arkansas**

Here in the Ozarks, we can get a lot of rain in April and May, making hiking and kayaking more challenging. The week before this hike, Springfield Mo had received a lot of rainfall, meaning that Northern Arkansas most likely had close to the same amount right before this trip. What this translates to is a definite no from me and the kids on the idea of kayaking the Upper Buffalo River when it was running very high and then walking about 1.5 miles to the falls. No thank you.

To prepare for this particular hike I had been working on strength training, stair climbing, swimming and cardio so that I could enjoy it more and hurt less. Even with all the preparation, my legs were still not ready for this degree of hiking and downright scampering around the rocks. Alltrails https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/arkansas/hemmed-in-hollow-trail rated this hike difficult and they were not kidding. Two days later, my quads and hamstrings were still locked up at times and it took a few precious minutes to ease into a walk that didn’t look more like a limp. Picture 7-8 sets of stairs like the ones below, with scenery and clear spots in between and you will have a good idea of what this hike entailed. We measured it at about 6.5-7 miles total as we also hiked the 1.5 miles to the Buffalo River to hang hammocks and rest before the ascent out.

**A series of stone steps like these are a big part of the trail at Hemmed In Hollow**

On the trailhead outside Compton stands a photo with measurements of the Empire State Building in NYC and a statement letting folks know that the climb out from the hollow (or holler if you’re from the South), is equivalent to climbing that famous building. We did not see this notice! It’s probably a good thing because I might have talked myself out of the hike before I even started, and Darby definitely would have. By the end of it all, the general consensus was the trail was brutal, but worth it.

After raining for multiple days, the area was waterlogged and beautiful.

What we sometimes forget when hiking because we are so excited to get where we are going, is that the way down is also difficult. When stepping down uneven terrain, you are constantly controlling your weight to not pitch forward, using your leg muscles to control every step. By the time I was 3/4 of the way down to the falls, my legs were already trembling with the effort. Not a fun thing to contemplate when looking back up and realizing you have to do the entire thing in reverse before the sun goes down. We initially started out hike at about 10:30 a.m. and we were back on top at 6:30 p.m. We did take a few short breaks coming down, one longer one at the falls and then a 35-minute break at the river swinging in the hammocks and eating a late lunch. The ascent was MANY breaks broken into consistent climbing or scrambling back up rocks, some of which we had slid down on our butts during the descent. The trip back up took 3 hours, and I would do it again in a heartbeat!

The hike was brutal but worth this experience!

Watch for the next installment of this hike next week. I’ll fill you in on what happened next and let you know what items we had the foresight to pack that really saved the day. Don’t forget to check out the Facebook page at How to do the Ozarks and Instagram at htdto2020.

Pomme de Terre State Park-Hiking Indian Point Trail

April 29, 2022June 12, 2022 / howtodotheozarks / 1 Comment

What to do on a beautiful April day???!!! Take a hike!!! So cliché, I know. After trying to coax my son Cole and my coworker Laura out for the morning, I gave up and shoved my German Shephard, Sammy into the car and took off for the 50-minute drive to Pomme de Terre State Park. Why 50 minutes for a 28 mile trip you may ask? Well I headed out in the wrong direction!!! I don’t know what I was thinking but I headed West instead of North. Just goes to show you that you can live somewhere for years and still get turned around especially when distracted by loading an excited animal into your vehicle and forgetting to check Maps.

**One of the Indian Point Trailheads at Pomme de Terre**

Much to my dismay, Sammy gets carsick. She’s about 10 years old and hasn’t done much traveling, only short trips to the vet. So, I’m driving along, and she is puking in the backseat. Now normally I would have not been pleased, and may have had a few choice words for her, but this was my bright idea to take her for company so it’s on me.

Pomme de Terre is located in Hickory County north and slightly west of Buffalo, Mo. It’s a two-finger lake, beautiful any time of year and generally crowded in the summer with campers, boaters, and lake people in general. The Indian Point Trail has several trailheads, a map may be accessed here: https://mostateparks.com/page/89776/pomme-de-terre-state-park-trails and is a 3 mile moderately rated hike. The trail was generally well blazed with blue markers except for the jaunt out to Indian Point. Blue blazes were nowhere to be found, but the trail is well used and being on a point, well we just went with it.

Sammy attempting to chase that mysterious noise while at Indian Point.

One of the best things about hiking in the middle of the week in the spring is the absolute absence of any other person on the trail. We encountered no one, not one single soul. It was glorious, quiet except for birds and the occasional boat motor of enthusiastic fishermen and women. I found the trail easy to navigate and not difficult at all with a few damp spots from recent rains. Generally, I wear tennis shoes when hiking and a good pair of boots would have been welcome with this terrain which was also rocky in areas. I did remember to take my snacks this time and plenty of water for me and the dog. She does not like to drink out of the bottle, but I managed to get some fluid into her mouth during our rest breaks. 3 miles was a good prep for the Mother’s Day hike I’m taking in Arkansas this year to Hemmed In Hollow. I was hoping to get there last year, but circumstances with my car prevented that trip.

**Not a lot of cover this time of year, but beautiful regardless**

One thing I love about the Missouri State Parks website is that you can click on an icon for whatever you’re interested in doing at a particular park like hiking, fishing, or boating and it will immediately take you to that particular page on the website. Pomme de Terre has two hiking trails listed for their park, but Indian Point was the longest. Stockton Lake is my favorite along with Bull Shoals in Arkansas, but Pomme de Terre in the spring is quiet, waiting to come to life and ready to welcome us all.

Don’t forget to check out the Facebook page at How to do the Ozarks and Instagram at htdto2020.

Hiking Busiek State Forest and Wildlife Area

March 10, 2021June 12, 2022 / howtodotheozarks / Leave a comment

Lot’s of rocky, steep terrain, but a good challenge.

Spring arrived early this past weekend with temps in the middle 60’s and blue skies! Cole and I shoved his Husky, Balto into the car and took off south from Springfield on Hwy 65 towards Branson to hike the Yellow Trail at Busiek State Forest https://nature.mdc.mo.gov/discover-nature/places/busiek-state-forest-and-wildlife-area. One of seven blazed trails in the park,we occasionally heard the sound of gunfire from the pistol range and the traffic on Hwy 65, but otherwise it was a great 4.3 mile hike.

Some highlights from the trip:

I remembered to bring snacks!!!
- I was smart and checked Alltrails https://www.alltrails.com/ before heading out so I was ready with my crocs for the river crossing which we had to do twice. I hate hiking in wet shoes!
- I felt really empowered with this hike as we accomplished the 4 miles in 2 ½ hours so I was pushing it.

The trails we encountered were well blazed and also had occasional metal signs posted that indicated where on the trail you were-there were 3 or 4 of these on the yellow trail. I’m not a good map reader, but Cole is so we didn’t take the longer route. There are several offshoots from the trail that are more rugged and will give you a longer hike, so if you are looking to spend more time check those out. I noticed that the uphill climbs really pushed my heart rate and the downhill trek really tested my leg strength. I had jelly legs at one point, but quickly recovered as I have been working out more and climbing more stairs to get ready for hiking.

There were a lot of people out hiking with their dogs and kids, mountain bikers and folks riding their horses. This park accommodates all types of recreation so be prepared. Balto is a fairly well behaved dog except when he is on a leash-then he tries to pull your arm off. Keep your pets and young children close on the trails and near the water. Balto is no swimmer and some areas drop off quickly in the river, though the bottom is still visible.

The shooting range is on the west side of Hwy 65 so hiking on the east side was preferable to me. There are trails off of the shooting range as well. Primitive camping is available with a special use permit and can be obtained by calling (417) 895-6880.

Surprisingly, we did not see a lot of wildlife on Sunday. There were a few birds and a huge vulture that flew close to the treetops, but no squirrels or other small game were visible. Of course, we had a large dog with us and he may have helped to scare any small critters away. All in all a good hike, good company and I can’t wait until the next one. So pack up your snacks, dog, extra water and get out there.

Check out the Facebook page How to do the Ozarks and Instagram htdto2020 for more pictures and places to visit!

Bennett Spring State Park

October 3, 2020May 10, 2022 / howtodotheozarks / Leave a comment

Forty minutes from where I live near Buffalo Missouri sits a trout hatchery park well worth a visit any time of year. Bennett Spring https://mostateparks.com/park/bennett-spring-state-park is more than just a great spot for fishing enthusiasts. Camping, hiking, swimming-all can be on the agenda for a day, weekend or longer. Cabins dot the area as well as sites made for any size RV or small tag along. During summer, a swimming pool sits overlooking the river and would be a great place for those uninterested in fishing. With Covid 19 ruling our lives this year, getting outside more than 6 feet apart and engaging in any activity is a welcome relief.

I set out on a Monday in early September, thinking I’d be one of the few in the park. Au contraire, the place was packed with anglers and campers hoping to snag a trout or two for dinner or for the shear exhilaration of winning the game known as fly fishing. As I hiked, I noted how unusually quiet it was. I knew there were at least 500 people in the general vicinity, but that didn’t matter. They were completely focused on their own pursuits and silently at that.

Hiking down Whistle trail, rated moderate, I met up with Bluff Trail without ever seeing the blaze changes (red blazes for Whistle-which can fade and orange for Bluff). This area was more rugged with the spring rains causing areas of concern where the trail had eroded away. I noted the trout in deeper waters and just out of reach of most anglers’ ability to cast. Smart fish. They numbered in the hundreds, all lazily swaying in the current and remaining in the same general area. Though not a very long hike, the terrain was steep and I decided to take the main road back to my vehicle instead of backtracking the way I had come. Passing the general store, now with less merchandise at the end of tourist season, though still well stocked as well as the dining lodge which was open for guests. Upon arriving I grabbed a few maps of the area from the store, one specifically for trails and one with general information. The staff was helpful and friendly, something state parks have in common here.

There are 5 trails here with Natural Tunnel Trail being the longest at 7 ½ miles. This is the trail I’d like to take next. The Alltrails app https://www.alltrails.com/ has some nice features and can give up to date information on the conditions of the trail from feedback given from other avid hikers. I’ve used this app before when hiking Hercules Glade. I may be able to convince my husband to take a short weekend trip there next year and hike while he scares fish away (he’s skunked every seasoned fisherman he’s ever fished with).

Beautiful rugged hike in Bennett Spring State Park

For me, this was a great half day trip and I was able to get in a quick though rugged hike in preparation for my goal of a longer and even more rugged hike next spring in Arkansas. I could have spent more time and of course, Lebanon is close by for shopping and other pursuits for those less likely to don hip waders and stand in cold streams waiting for a hit. But Lebanon is another adventure. So get out there, fall is calling.

Check out the Facebook page How to do the Ozarks and Instagram htdto2020 for more pictures and places to visit!

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