Disclaimer:  The elk in Peck Ranch are wild animals, do not leave your car, truck or SUV to go pet them or take selfies with them.  Help keep wild animals wild

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There is nothing like a drive through the Ozarks countryside in October.  The leaves are on fire and the hillsides blaze with a thousand shades of orange, yellow, green and red.  Winding roads, both asphalt and dirt lead you on toward even more breathtaking scenery around each curve.  Though the weather was cooperating on the day we visited Peck Ranch just northeast of Winona, the elk were not.

In May of 2011, six bulls alongside 28 cows and calves were released into what was to become a successful conservation effort specifically geared toward reintroducing elk into Missouri after a 146 year absence.  More elk were introduced to expand the herd in 2012 and 2013 and now Shannon, Carter and Reynolds counties host an ever expanding elk population and tourist destination.  So much so, that this year, a limited hunt was allowed through a lottery for a shot at 5 antlered elk. 

This heavily forested part of Missouri has little industry beyond tourism, healthcare, schools and logging.  Peck Ranch, along with other conservation areas; including the federally protected Current and Jacks Fork rivers, is helping bring more tourism to the area to the tune of 1.3 million.  Taking a socially distanced, friendly drive also helps hundreds if not thousands of Ozarks residents thrive in these less populated counties. We had originally planned to overnight nearby in Van Buren which would have helped us get an earlier start into the park, but the best laid plans are occasionally foiled.  If you are planning a trip to Peck Ranch I recommend trying one of the accommodations including Air BnB’s nearby to get a jump on the day.

October is mating season for elk and we were looking forward to the driving elk tour during the second week of the month.  Alas, a small window of opportunity for a hunter to bag an elk from October 12th through the 16^th foiled our plans and we had to wait for the weekend instead.  Still, as I said, the weather was great and the drive beautiful.  Experts recommend that early morning (the park officially opens at 4 a.m.) and sunset are the best times for observation of these huge animals.  Of course, being late sleepers on the weekend, we got to Peck Ranch at noon.  Combine hunters previously in the woods stalking game to fill the freezer and the noon high sun and you guessed it, not a single elk sighting.

Other tourists were traversing the gravel back trails of Peck Ranch as well, hoping to catch a glimpse of these relative newcomers to the Ozarks.  We did see a few armadillos, deer and lots of turtles.  I had no idea armadillos were active during the day and thought the one we did see was a fast moving turtle!  Visit https://nature.mdc.mo.gov/discover-nature/places/peck-ranch-conservation-area before you start your drive especially to check and see if the park is open to driving tours due to this seasons hunting schedule. Checking out Google Maps for area restaurants would be my recommendation as we used this feature once we were back in civilization (or at least getting a small signal) to find Cattlemen’s Restaurant in Willow Springs.  Great food and service, but that is another post!

All in all a great day trip and one I would happily recommend, though next time we will get an earlier start!

Check out the Facebook page How to do the Ozarks and Instagram htdto2020 for more pictures and places to visit!

Hiking is one of my favorite ways to exercise and my goal has always been to do more.  Facing a 10 day vacation I decided, in a moment of complete insanity, to ask my son to take me on one of his primitive overnight hiking/camping trips.  Let me tell you, I have not worked out that hard in quite a while.

Close to the highest point in Missouri 1700+ miles above sea level.

Our first stop was the Mina Sauk Falls Trail at Missouri’s highest point, Taum Sauk which is 1700+ feet above sea level.  Located in Madison County, northeast of Mountain Grove and off Hwy 21 and CC, this picturesque spot was Cole’s first choice for overnight camping.  One thing about hiking in Missouri is that some trails are smooth and easy to navigate and some trails take so much concentration to keep from rolling your ankles, you never have a chance to look up.  Mina Sauk Falls Trail was in the latter category, though the scenery and falls (only running in wet conditions) were worth it.  I had to remind myself to deliberately stop occasionally to take a look around due to the minefield of rocks on the trail.  Big rocks, little rocks, mossy rocks, wet rocks-you get the idea.  Depending on your goal and the state of your ankles, you may want to limit your time on this particular trail.  It is partially paved for wheelchair access to the spot proclaiming Missouri’s highest point.  It took 3 hours to trek 3 miles with occasional stops for photo ops.  Check out the Scarlet Tanager Cole captured:

This cute little guy was worth stopping and looking for! Scarlet Tanager

Due to the restrictions and cost for primitive camping at this particular site, Cole decided to camp a few miles up the road at Johnson’s Shut In’s State Park in Reynolds County.  We parked at the Scour Trail trail head, strapped on our gear (mine must have weighed 35 lbs., at least) and headed in.  The time: 5:00 p.m.  That’s right, not very much time to hike in 2 miles over fairly rugged terrain and set up camp before darkness fell.  In the woods, dark comes early.  Of course, the trail gradually elevated, challenging my jiggly thigh muscles especially with the weight of gear, food and water on my back.  We had walked up a ridge and were about a quarter of a mile from our destination when I told Cole, “I can’t make it up another ridge like that one!”  He gamely took my pack from me, slid his arms into the straps and carried one backpack on his chest and one on his back while leading the way up an even more difficult ridge than the one I’d complained about!  Talk about service!

Once in the clearing of one of his favorite primitive campsites, Cole started looking for firewood while I caught my breath and chugged water.  Dry wood was plentiful on the ground so we didn’t have to look far to find enough to get a good campfire going, big enough to cook dinner and small enough to control with the water we had carried in if necessary.  Using dirt instead of our precious water supply is always preferable. Keeping the primitive in primitive camping, Cole used his flint and steel knife (pictured below) to start our campfire.  It took quite a bit of work and I did offer my lighter which would have taken less energy and been faster as well.  Note to self:  The drier the grass you start with, the better.

Flint and steel for primitive camp fires. I did offer my lighter which is much faster!

We had decided on hammock camping as they are light, easy to carry, set up in a trice and leave no trace.  We set up my 2 person hammock and Cole’s one person hammock close enough to each other to assist one another if needed-and it was needed.  On our hike through the deeper woods we had seen evidence of recent feral hog activity, putting the hammocks up fairly high seemed prudent, though we had brought a sidearm and 33 rounds along for the trip.  This area of Missouri is known for bears and feral hogs, so we were prepared for anything.

A few things about primitive camping that were challenging to me:

1. I was cold, especially my back and butt, swinging in the breeze on a 64 degree night. I had not brought a sleeping bag.
2. I do not like sleeping with my face open to nature. The two person hammock allowed me to cover my face and torso, but not my lower legs.  I had not expected this to be an issue, but the thought of any spider or insect being able to land on my nose kept me awake.
3. Hiking 5 rugged miles did a number on those jiggly thighs and I was unable to get comfortable in the hammock without serious cramps-luckily Cole was close by to yank me out of the hammock when both thighs got Charlie horse cramps at the same time. I did manage to get into my hammock on the first try without flipping over and breaking something.

This is not my preferred way to camp, but, I got to try something I had never done, spend quality time with my youngest son, and learn how not to go about doing something like this again.  I will definitely try to keep down the actual mileage I attempt to hike with a pack next time, maybe just the 3 miles.  I will also be more prepared if I ever have to rough it and have a better idea of what to expect.  We were very prepared as far as food, water, and bug spray were concerned.  We were not prepared for the cooler temperatures even in the middle of June.

Proof of Life photo taken for hubby after coming down from the overnighter

All that being said, it was absolutely worth it.  The silence of the night deep in the forest with only occasional faint road noise, the three whippoorwills’ calling back and forth throughout the night, the coyotes howling in the distance, the sure knowledge that I had done it.  I was still alive the next morning no worse for wear except for being tired.  I’ll take that any time.

Check out the Facebook page How to do the Ozarks and Instagram htdto2020 for more pictures and places to visit!

One of 2 vultures found in North America, this black vulture was spotted in Roaring River State Park in SW Missouri

I have always been fascinated with fishing.  As an only child with a great imagination, I would find the biggest stick I could, tie yarn to it and place a huge metal closet hook on the end.  I would march down the stairs into the wilds of the backyard of my apartment in San Francisco, toss my line into the cats water bowl and sit for what seemed like hours (probably 10 minutes, I was 4) waiting for something to happen.  As I grew I learned other ways of fishing for the real thing and enjoyed taking my oldest son out and letting him learn about this great hobby.  Yesterday I had the chance once again to be involved in passing down a passion for fishing as my family gathered at Roaring River State Park and introduced this fun hobby to the grandkids.

Roaring River is located outside Cassville in Barry County, Missouri.  A scenic drive off of Hwy 60 down Hwy 39 to Hwy 248 and a hard left onto Hwy 112 which takes you to the park.  The park has 3 levels with different bait use available for each level.  When the park officially opens this year (2020) on May 17^th you must have both a Missouri state fishing license and a daily trout tag to fish.  Children under 16 and seniors 65+ are exempt from fishing license rules in Missouri, but must obtain a daily trout tag.  There are plenty of spots to tent camp, RV camp or rent a cabin on the property.  There are quite a few resorts that we passed that look well-kept and that are starting to open back up after the Covid 19 shutdown.

A birds eye view from the Fire Tower Trail overlooking the main hatchery pond.

I was more interested in hiking this trip than fishing, so I left the spouse to see if he could catch dinner (he didn’t) and took off for the Fire Tower Trail with two of my children.  The park has 7 trails and information and maps area available here:  https://apps5.mo.gov/trails/fullMap.action  and here: https://mostateparks.com/sites/mostateparks/files/Roaring%20River.pdf   Due to the difficulty level of the trail, my abysmal cardio endurance, and fear of heights, we were only able to hike for about an hour.  Lesson learned.  At the hatchery, Roaring River is located between two very high bluffs, so if you want to hike there, it’s pretty much straight up.  I will be checking out the other trails at some point to see if any are less heart attack inducing.

The weather was perfect on May 9, though anyone from this area can tell you the weather can change quickly and without warning in these parts.  Back in 2017 rains poured down and swept away quite a few of Missouri’s water based businesses and campers in Roaring Rivers valley had to be evacuated.  Many are rebuilding including Roaring River State Park.  Once a hatchery with many tanks for young trout, most now stand empty with only a few holding tanks used to get brown and rainbow trout ready for delivery into the river.  On opening day, March 1, trout fishermen and women stand shoulder to shoulder casting lines and showing off their skills at 10 and 2 o’clock.  Having never mastered the art of fly fishing, watching people who are skilled is a favorite past time while I’m on the rivers.  Trout can also be caught using spinner bait with a rod and reel; my oldest has had luck with power bait as well.

Whether you want to fish, camp, hike or swim-Roaring River State Park has all your outdoor getaway needs!

Roaring River is a great spot for the day or the weekend.  Close to the Arkansas border and the Chain of Lakes, there are quite a few outdoor pursuits to enjoy.  The park is well equipped for picnics, BBQ’s and also has a restaurant and store which will open after May 17^th 2020. There is also a nature center which explores the history of the park, and will also open around May 17^th.   On August 15, 2020 Roaring River will host a Kids Free Fishing day which are generally staffed with experienced men and women who love to share their fishing knowledge with the next generation.  Keep an eye on the Department of Conservation website at: https://mdc.mo.gov/events/details/kids-fishing-day

All things considered the day was wonderful.  My granddaughter’s began learning a great new hobby that will hopefully engage them in the outdoors for years to come.  Be warned, the water is very cold and extra socks are a must for children.  There is no wading in the fishing areas, but there is a swimming hole and swimming pool available in other parts of the park.  Several other well learned lessons were:  Don’t throw rocks when people are fishing and Don’t touch random plants (poison ivy grows close to the trails here).  Roaring River State Park has a lot to offer, so get out there!

Well-kept cabins with a view of the hatchery and close to the store and restaurant.

There are seven hiking trails throughout Roaring River State Park. Part of Fire Tower Trail is a steep incline up the bluff.

Check out the Facebook page How to do the Ozarks and Instagram htdto2020 for more pictures and places to visit!

Bulk Food Store and Greenhouse

I recently took a drive further into Dallas County to check out Lead Mine, an area specifically set up for equestrians with specialty primitive camp grounds for horse enthusiasts.  There are plenty of marked trails for horses, hikers, bicyclists, and access to the Niangua River for floating.  It is also part of the Missouri Birding Trail.  I took Hwy 73 just north of Buffalo off Hwy 65 and followed the signs into the area.

Lead Mine is directly east of Tunas, Missouri and is home to a Mennonite community so watch for horse drawn buggies, wagons and children on bicycles.  I stopped at a few stores including Miller’s Country Store and The Lead Mine Country Store and Restaurant.  The restaurant is only open limited hours so I was not able to sample any food, but the store did not disappoint.

The Lead Mine Country Store is chock full of all types of books on farming, cooking, hunting and what to do with your harvest-whether it’s meat or vegetable.  I could have easily spent a lot of money on books while there.  They also have a good selection of bulk spices, enamelware, and supplies for canning as well as bolts of cloth, hats, gloves, and a wide variety of suspenders.  If you have ever dreamed of homesteading, this is your store.

Lots to look at in this quaint stop on Hwy YY.

Miller’s Country Store off Hwy 73 also run by Mennonites has a greenhouse, outdoor furniture collection, large bulk food selection, frozen section, spices and a deli counter.  I bought some herbs and admired the container flower gardens.  Miller’s is larger and boasts more light inside, Lead Mine Country Store is quaint and old fashioned.  While at Lead Mine I paid a quarter for an area map of businesses to check out later including Niangua Furniture and Wenger’s Greenhouse.

Bulk food store and much more. Hwy 73 North of Buffalo

Some things of note as I did not have much time, this was an exploratory trip:

1. Conservation areas in Missouri can sometimes be deceptive.  Most that I have been to have very innocuous entrances leading you to believe you have arrived at your destination and there really isn’t much to brag about.  Lead Hill is one of these places, so keep driving.
2. Wifi doesn’t work real well out here. I actually pulled out my Missouri map from the glove box to relocate myself several times between spotty internet access for Google Maps.  A map specific to the Lead Mine CA area would have been helpful and is available here https://nature.mdc.mo.gov/discover-nature/places/lead-mine-ca:
3. During this particular trip, I realized I needed to take my personal security a little more seriously as I am occasionally alone when hiking or taking photographs. I realized after a truck and trailer (not a horse trailer) had passed me slowly several times that I was in a vulnerable position and really couldn’t defend myself should I meet someone who meant me harm.  Most of the time, personal crimes are committed by people the victim knows, but sometimes they are crimes of opportunity.  This trip solidified in my mind that I needed mace and possibly other protective gear to demonstrate, if needed, that I was serious in protecting myself.
4. This would be an excellent area for attempting mountain biking, which is something I have been considering doing more of this spring and summer to increase my fitness level. I’ll let you know how it goes.
5. Ticks were out in the high grass and I completed a tick check as soon as I got home from my little exploratory hike. Should have sprayed down first.

This drive would be an excellent Saturday trip, as the above stores are NOT open on Sundays.  Whether you want to hike, float, fish or ride your horse, this is an area to put on your list.  Don’t forget to bring your binoculars, bug repellent , water and get out there!

Check out the Facebook page How to do the Ozarks and Instagram htdto2020 for more pictures and places to visit!